Gjirokaster
Gjirokaster
Gjirokaster, often called the 'City of Stone', is a stunning historical town in southern Albania. The town sits on a steep hillside overlooking the Drino Valley, with its Ottoman-era houses cascading down the slopes like a architectural waterfall.
The most impressive feature is the massive fortress that towers over the town. Built in the 12th century and expanded by Ali Pasha in the 1800s, it now houses a military museum and provides incredible views of the surrounding mountains and valley. The old town of Gjirokaster was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005 for its outstanding examples of Ottoman architecture.
Walking through the cobblestone streets feels like stepping back in time. The traditional houses with their stone roofs, wooden balconies, and whitewashed walls create a unique atmosphere you won't find elsewhere in the Balkans. Many of these houses are now museums, including the childhood home of former Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha and the famous writer Ismail Kadare.
Every five years, Gjirokaster hosts the National Folklore Festival, bringing together traditional music and dance from all over Albania. The town is also known for its handcrafts, particularly embroidery and silverwork, which reflect Albanian cultural heritage.
The local cuisine is worth exploring too, with influences from Greek and Turkish traditions but with its own Albanian twist. Fresh mountain herbs, local dairy, and slow-cooked dishes are staples you'll find in the small restaurants throughout the town.
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Things to do in Gjirokaster
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Day Trip to Permet Hot Springs
Roughly an hour from Gjirokaster, the natural hot springs near the town of Permet offer a peaceful escape into Albania’s scenic countryside. The most popular springs are located in Benja, where warm, mineral-rich waters meet the clear Langarica River, forming a series of inviting natural pools. The mix of hot and cool water, set against the dramatic canyon backdrop, creates a serene atmosphere ideal for unwinding.
An old stone bridge from the Ottoman period stretches over the river, adding historical charm to the natural surroundings. Unlike heavily developed spa resorts, the Benja springs remain largely untouched, preserving their authentic appeal. After relaxing in the pools, visitors often head into Permet for a local meal. The town is known for its traditional cuisine, especially gliko and fruit-based raki. The region also features quiet hiking trails and timeless villages, offering a slower pace and a distinct contrast to Gjirokaster’s urban character.
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Exploring Southern Albania: Castles, Springs, and UNESCO Gems
This full-day tour through southern Albania offers a well-paced mix of history, nature, and culture over the course of nine hours. The journey begins in Sarandë with a visit to Lëkurësi Castle, an Ottoman-era fortress perched on a hill that provides panoramic views of the bay and surrounding landscapes. It's an ideal first stop for photos and a brief look into the region's strategic past.
From there, the itinerary continues to the ancient Mesopotam Monastery and the Blue Eye Spring, a natural wonder known for its deep, electric blue waters. The spring, set in a forested area, maintains a constant temperature of 10°C throughout the year. Along the way, you'll also see remnants of Albania’s layered history, including an old Ottoman bridge and bunkers dating back to the communist era.
A major highlight is the time spent in Gjirokastër, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its traditional Ottoman stone houses and steep cobbled streets. The atmosphere of the town offers a strong sense of Albania’s architectural and cultural heritage. Travel between stops is in a comfortable Mercedes minivan, led by an English-speaking guide who provides informative commentary throughout the trip. It’s advisable to bring cash for lunch in Gjirokastër and for the entrance fee at the Blue Eye Spring.
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Traditional Wood Crafting Workshop in Gjirokaster
For those seeking a more meaningful keepsake than the usual souvenir, a hands-on wood crafting session in the heart of Gjirokastër offers a memorable and personal experience. The activity begins at Cerciz Topulli Square, where participants meet their host before walking to Master Nurce's traditional workshop. There, you’ll be introduced to the region’s rich woodworking heritage and the types of wood used in this long-standing craft, all while enjoying a glass of local raki or homemade wine.
Participants can choose a small project such as a wooden sign, necklace, key hanger, or mirror. Under the guidance of an experienced instructor, you'll learn basic carving techniques and gradually shape your design. The atmosphere is relaxed, with the instructor offering support while still allowing you to take ownership of your work. Over the course of three hours, you'll transform raw material into a unique item that reflects your effort and creativity—an authentic memento that captures the spirit of Gjirokastër’s artisan traditions.
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Albanian Heritage Day Trip: Blue Eye Springs, Gjirokaster and Lekursi Castle
This full-day tour in southern Albania combines four remarkable destinations into one unforgettable experience. Beginning from Saranda or Ksamil, the first stop is the serene St. Nicholas Monastery in Mesopotam, where the tranquil setting allows visitors to absorb centuries of history and spiritual heritage. The scenic countryside drive leads to the stunning Blue Eye spring, a natural marvel known for its crystal-clear waters that reach depths of over 50 meters. The striking blue hues contrasted with lush greenery create a breathtaking view that stays with you.
The adventure continues to Gjirokaster, a UNESCO World Heritage site that transports you to the past with its cobblestone streets and well-preserved Ottoman architecture. Here, you can explore the impressive Gjirokaster Castle, browse local crafts, or enjoy a meal. The final destination is Lekursi Castle, located on a hilltop offering expansive views over Saranda and the shimmering Ionian Sea. Throughout the 8-hour journey, a knowledgeable driver-guide provides insightful commentary on Albanian culture, history, and everyday life, ensuring a comfortable and enriching way to experience the region’s natural beauty and cultural richness.
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Hike to Antigonea Archaeological Park
Roughly 14 kilometers from Gjirokaster lies the ancient city of Antigonea, established around 295 BC by King Pyrrhus of Epirus and named in honor of his wife. Reaching the site involves a scenic hike through serene countryside, where the trail passes through olive groves and offers expansive views of the surrounding mountains. The approach alone provides a peaceful immersion in nature, setting the tone for the historical site ahead.
At the hilltop ruins, visitors can explore remnants of city walls, residential foundations, and a small theater. Unlike more frequented archaeological locations, Antigonea retains a tranquil atmosphere, often allowing for an uninterrupted visit. Informational boards scattered throughout the site offer helpful context, including the story of the city's destruction by the Romans in 168 BC as retribution for siding with their enemies. With limited on-site amenities, bringing water and light provisions is best. Spring and autumn are ideal times to visit, when wildflowers bloom or the landscape is painted with autumn tones.
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Visit the Blue Eye Spring (Syri i Kaltër)
Located about 30 minutes from Sarandë, the Blue Eye is a striking natural spring known for its vivid blue water and remarkable clarity. Fed by an underwater source of unknown depth, the spring forms a deep, circular pool surrounded by dense greenery. A viewing platform provides an ideal vantage point to observe the constantly bubbling water and the shifting shades of blue created by the changing light. Despite the year-round temperature of around 10°C, some visitors choose to take a quick dip, though the cold and strong currents can be intense.
Visitors often spend a few hours enjoying the peaceful surroundings, taking photos, or relaxing by the river that flows from the spring. A nearby restaurant offers lunch with scenic views, making it a convenient stop during the visit. While the access road has improved, parts remain uneven, so a rental car is recommended for a smoother journey and added flexibility to visit nearby sites such as Ali Pasha Castle near Borsh. Arriving earlier in the day allows for a quieter experience before larger groups begin to arrive.
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Visit Zekate House
Zekate House is among the most well-preserved Ottoman-era mansions in Gjirokaster, showcasing the distinct architecture that defines the city. Constructed in the early 19th century for a prominent merchant family, the mansion stands on elevated ground within the old town and reflects the classic tower-house design typical of Gjirokaster’s aristocratic residences.
The structure highlights thoughtful architectural elements designed for seasonal living. Lower levels, used in colder months, feature compact rooms ideal for retaining warmth, while the upper floors offer expansive windows and improved ventilation suited for summer. Inside, original wooden ceilings, built-in storage, and traditional furniture remain intact. Personal tours by the owners often include stories of the family’s history and practical insights into the home's layout. A highlight is the elaborately decorated reception room, complete with carved woodwork and window seating that provides a wide view of the city. Although the ascent to the house is steep, it is rewarded with panoramic views and a deeper understanding of life during the Ottoman period.
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Visit Ethnographic Museum
The Ethnographic Museum is set in the actual birthplace of former Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha, but that's not why it's interesting - it's been transformed into an amazing showcase of traditional Albanian life. The building itself is a classic example of Gjirokaster architecture, with its tall stone walls and slate roof. Inside, each room is set up to show different aspects of how people lived in the 19th century.
I was surprised by how detailed everything is. You can see traditional clothing, old kitchen tools, beautiful handmade carpets, and weapons that families kept for protection. The wooden ceilings are intricately carved, and there are these cool storage spaces built right into the walls. The guides are really knowledgeable and can explain how everything was used. It's fascinating to see how families lived together in these large houses, with separate areas for men and women, and how they survived the harsh mountain winters. It gives you a much deeper understanding of Albanian culture than just walking around the town.
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Visit Ismail Kadare's House
For those interested in Albanian literature or local heritage, a visit to Ismail Kadare's house offers meaningful insight. Recognized as Albania’s most renowned writer and a multiple-time Nobel Prize nominee, Kadare’s childhood home has been converted into a museum that highlights the early influences that shaped his literary career. The museum presents a more intimate look at his life, allowing visitors to connect with the personal roots of his storytelling.
The house itself reflects the traditional architecture of Gjirokaster, with its stone construction and preserved interior. Kadare’s original study, personal artifacts, family photographs, and manuscripts are displayed throughout the space. The audio guide features selected passages from his novels, many of which are set in Gjirokaster, emphasizing how the town’s distinct atmosphere influenced his work. Although modest in size, the museum adds a thoughtful cultural layer to the Gjirokaster experience, illustrating how the Communist era and the town’s history shaped Kadare’s voice as a writer.
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Visit the Cold War Tunnel
This underground tunnel network offers a compelling glimpse into Albania's Communist era under Enver Hoxha, who was born in Gjirokaster. Constructed as a secure shelter for government officials in the event of an attack, the tunnels reflect the intense isolation and fear that defined the country's political climate at the time. The atmosphere inside is quiet and somber, making the walk through its dim corridors both thought-provoking and memorable.
Spanning approximately 800 meters beneath the town, the complex includes 59 rooms once outfitted for long-term survival, including communication areas and sleeping quarters. The existence of these tunnels was kept hidden for years, with many locals unaware of them until they were eventually opened to visitors. Today, the space features relics like military gear, gas masks, and propaganda materials that help illustrate the mindset of the period. The naturally cool temperature provides a welcome escape from the heat during summer, and tours are often led by guides who lived through that era, offering personal insights that add depth to the historical context.
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Explore Gjirokaster Castle
Sitting high above the city, Gjirokaster Castle is a must-visit spot that offers amazing views of the entire valley. Built in the 12th century and later expanded by Ali Pasha in the 1800s, this massive fortress has seen a lot of history. As you walk around, you'll find old prison cells, tunnels, and even a US Air Force plane that was captured during the Communist era.
The castle also houses the National Museum of Armaments, which displays weapons from different periods of Albanian history. What I found really cool was how you can walk along the castle walls and imagine what life was like centuries ago. The stone pathways and old artillery positions give you a real sense of the past. Make sure to bring your camera – the panoramic views of the slate-roofed houses spreading out below are absolutely stunning, especially in the late afternoon light when everything takes on a golden glow.
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Wander through the Old Bazaar
The Old Bazaar in Gjirokaster serves as a vibrant center of daily life, framed by well-preserved Ottoman architecture. Along its cobblestone streets, small shops display handmade crafts, antiques, and local food products, with welcoming vendors who often share insights about their goods and the town's history. The atmosphere blends commerce and tradition, offering an engaging glimpse into the community’s everyday rhythm.
What sets the bazaar apart is its strong sense of authenticity. Many stores occupy original stone buildings with distinctive wooden doors that have stood for generations. Visitors can pause at one of the intimate cafés to enjoy Turkish coffee or local raki while observing the slow, steady pace of life around them. The late afternoon provides a particularly pleasant time to visit, as the warm light enhances the textures of the stone structures and invites quieter moments of exploration.
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Traditional Albanian Vegetarian Cooking Class in Gjirokastër
Experience authentic Albanian vegetarian cooking in Gjirokastër with this hands-on class that immerses you in local culinary traditions. Beginning at Çerçiz Topulli Square, you’ll stroll to the historic ‘Pazar i Vjeter’ neighborhood, where Marjeta and her husband warmly welcome you into their home with a glass of raki or wine. The relaxed setting feels more like cooking with friends than a formal lesson.
Over the course of 2.5 hours, you’ll prepare three traditional dishes under Marjeta’s expert guidance: ‘Qofte bobollaqe,’ a yogurt-based specialty; the unique Gjirokastër dish ‘Qifqis’ made with rice; and ‘Hasude’ for dessert. After cooking, everyone gathers to share the meal, accompanied by homemade wine or raki. The patient translators add clarity and humor, enhancing the experience. Detailed recipes are provided at the end, allowing you to recreate these dishes long after the class concludes.
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Where to stay in Gjirokaster
Best hotels in Gjirokaster:
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Boutique Hotel Empire of Martin (budget hotel)
Boutique Hotel Empire of Martin in Gjirokaster offers a great mix of style and comfort. Located just a 15-20 minute walk uphill from the old town and bazaar, it’s easy to explore the area. The rooms feature a blend of modern amenities and traditional charm, with cozy beds, mountain views, and soft lighting that creates a relaxing atmosphere.
The staff at this hotel are incredibly welcoming, always going the extra mile to offer local advice and recommendations. A standout feature is the breakfast, which many guests consider some of the best food they've enjoyed in Albania.
The hotel is located on a quiet street, offering a peaceful environment for a restful night, while still being close to the major sights. There’s free parking available, which is a real convenience for anyone driving through the region. It’s a perfect, comfortable base for discovering the beauty of Gjirokaster.
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Hotel Fantasy (luxury hotel)
Hotel Fantasy in Gjirokaster is a fantastic choice for anyone visiting this historic city. Situated in the center of the old town, you’re just a short walk away from key attractions like the castle and bazaar. The rooms offer breathtaking views of the city and the castle, visible from the windows or balconies.
The rooms are modern, spacious, and very comfortable, with large bathrooms—some even featuring tubs, which is perfect for unwinding after a day of sightseeing. The staff are incredibly friendly and go the extra mile to make your stay enjoyable, offering helpful recommendations and answering any questions.
Breakfast is included, and it’s delicious with generous portions to fuel your day of exploration. In the evenings, you can dine at the on-site restaurant or enjoy a drink at the bar. With its combination of excellent location, comfort, and attentive service, Hotel Fantasy is a great choice for a stay in Gjirokaster.
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Sharm Hotel (medium range hotel)
Sharm Hotel Luxury in Gjirokastër is a great option for travelers seeking comfort and style. The rooms are spacious and modern, featuring cozy beds that promise a restful night’s sleep. Some rooms offer stunning views of the city and castle, making for a memorable stay.
The staff is exceptional, going out of their way to make sure guests feel welcome. They are friendly and always available to assist with anything you need. Breakfast is freshly made to order, offering delicious and satisfying options. The hotel also provides free parking for those who drive.
Though it's not in the immediate vicinity of Gjirokastër’s main attractions, the hotel is still easily accessible. Clean, quiet, and newly renovated, it exudes a luxurious ambiance. For anyone looking to enjoy a bit of luxury during their visit to this historic city, Sharm Hotel Luxury is definitely worth considering.
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Kerculla Resort (resort)
Kerculla Resort in Gjirokastër offers a breathtaking escape on a hilltop with stunning views of the mountains and city below. Guests can relax at one of the two outdoor pools while enjoying the scenic surroundings. The rooms are spacious and well-equipped, featuring modern amenities and private balconies with picturesque vistas.
The resort's restaurant serves a mix of delicious traditional Albanian dishes and international favorites. After a meal, guests can enjoy cocktails at the bar while watching the sunset over Gjirokastër’s historic castle. The attentive staff ensure that visitors have a memorable and comfortable stay.
With its ideal location, Kerculla Resort is a great starting point for exploring Gjirokastër’s UNESCO-listed old town. When not sightseeing, guests can use the fitness center or indulge in a relaxing steam bath. This resort offers a luxurious experience with all the necessary amenities for a memorable stay.
Best hostels in Gjirokaster:
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Friends' Guesthouse & Hostel (boutique hostel)
Friends' Guesthouse & Hostel in Gjirokastër is a cozy place to stay, just a short walk from the Old Bazaar, making it an ideal spot for exploring the city’s UNESCO-listed old town. The hostel offers comfortable rooms and dormitories, along with inviting common areas perfect for relaxing and meeting fellow travelers.
A standout feature is the rooftop terrace, where guests can enjoy breathtaking views of the castle and surrounding mountains while sipping their morning coffee. The family-owned hostel creates a warm, welcoming atmosphere, with the owners going out of their way to assist with local recommendations and even parking your car. With its central location and friendly vibe, Friends' Guesthouse provides a perfect home base for immersing yourself in the charm of Gjirokastër.
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Trigona Hostel (hostel)
Trigona Hostel is a cozy spot located just a 5-minute walk from Gjirokastër’s old town, putting you close to all the main sights and dining options. The rooms, with their charming stone walls, offer a mix of traditional appeal and modern amenities like air conditioning and flat-screen TVs, ensuring a comfortable stay.
The rooftop terrace is a highlight, providing fantastic views of the castle where you can relax and enjoy the surroundings. The hostel also has a well-equipped kitchen for those who prefer to cook their own meals, and the staff is friendly and always ready with useful tips about the area.
This hostel is a great budget-friendly choice for exploring Gjirokastër. Its clean rooms, central location, and relaxed atmosphere make it a favorite for travelers, though it’s a bit of a walk from the bus station. Once you’re there, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy the city’s charm and historic vibe.